Day 8 - Windsor Castle, and Jack the Ripper

Today was an early day so we could catch the train out to Windsor Castle. We put our faith in the hands of the nice ticket man, who gave us a deal - buy 2 get 1 free - and sent us to Platform 11. After waiting 10 minutes on Platform 11 - completely alone and with no train - it was a good thing we came to our senses... we had to run to Platform 13 in order to not miss our train!  It was not just 2 platforms away, it was in a different section. I was booking it (shoes on this time), and yelling to Craig and Reene we need to hurry!  We made it with 10 seconds to spare!

We thought our itinerary today was to have brunch with HM The Queen but she must have not gotten the memo because supposedly she is in Scotland - which we sadly realized when we arrived and her flag was not flying atop her castle. Though I am quite certain I have a pix of her and Philip entering the chapel for their private Sunday service:-)  We made the best of the change in plans by touring the Dollhouse, State Rooms, and grounds. We took obligatory pictures with the guard. He is only allowed to do 2 things on his 2-hr shift: switch gun arms or take a walk. If you get too close to him - in his personal space - he will employ one of his options. 

Back in London Craig and I went for a 4 mile run to Camden Market (crazy busy on a Sunday). It is a beer <read "never">  (I am leaving "beer" because I love when Siri auto corrects my words to say beer) ending market of food, stores and stalls. I can never figure out which direction the cars are coming from - being that they are on the wrong side, and I never know when it is a one way road - but even more dangerous are the bikers. One ran into me very hard on the run :'(

We ate dinner in Chinatown - very fresh yummy noodles! There are quite the crowds walking down Oxford Street, through Soho, and into Chinatown.

Making dumplings at Jen's Cafe 

Our day ended with a walking tour of the East End - featuring Jack the Ripper. A serial killer in 1888, he "muuh-duh'ed" (I love the way they say murder) 5 prostitutes. Molly's information was factual and dry. IMHO go with someone other than her. 

Tomorrow I fly back across The Pond - back to home and my real life. Separate from missing my family, I am greatly saddened to leave Europe. I feel like this is where I belong, and cannot wait to return again. 

Day 7 - The Globe, St. Paul's and Greenwich

We got adventurous today and figured out how to take the bus. It is half the price of the tube, you have something to look at out the windows, and it is fun to be on a traditional double decker. 

We started at the opening of The Globe theater - the remake of Shakespeare's original. As we were waiting, and were next in line, a tour guide cut ahead of us. She was late and unorganized, so we had to wait while they called someone up to help her. Then in walks her groupies -- Tauck!  Not mom's group though - there are 180 people split into smaller groups. 

The Globe Theater was one of my favorite places so far, and I will definitely come back to see it again. I liked the information the museum gave. It wasn't all about Shakespeare at all - it was not a sleeper - I was reading about London during his time, etc. Then we had a tour of the theater. I loved the poster of "you are quoting Shakespeare when" but didn't want to carry it around all day.  "It's Greek to me""in a pickle""seen better days" and many more. 

The theme of the day was the Millennium Bridge. We crossed over it twice, under it once, and saw it from 350 feet above. It is famous from Harry Potter - the bridge the Death Eaters flew over and destroyed. 

The bridge connects The Globe and St. Paul's Cathedral - our next destination. The architect was famous Christopher Wren, and Princess Diana married Charles here - a wedding I got up in the middle of the night to watch!  We climbed high into its dome. At one level, you can look straight down through a small opening to the floor below and see the ants walking around. Very cool but no photography allowed. Outside on the top level you could see all of London for miles. 

The Shard on the left is Western Europe's tallest building. 

The bad news about our day is that it was ugly overcast all day. The good news is that it wasn't raining - except for some sprinkles on our picnic. 

From Wellington Arch we took a "free" Westminster walking tour with Sandemans. I don't recommend it, even though I had no problem with the one I had in Italy. They told me we could not be late and "catch up" with the tour but they didn't tell me why ... At the beginning they take a pix "to post on Facebook" but really to charge the guide up to £3 for each tourist, which he is essentially obligated to re-coup from you in tips. Our group was so big, because one guide bailed, that we dragged at a snails pace so much so that we had to leave halfway through. Someone suggested he not wait for the slow people but he had to - as he was paying for them so needed their tip!  Lastly and most importantly he was not a credible source. He sounded like one but he couldn't tell me what the driving lines in the street meant (admittingly something I should have asked prior to renting a car) - and he is raised in London!

We took a river cruise to Greenwich - something I hadn't expected to enjoy as much as I did. It was informative (live guide) and more importantly - had a bar. While we were stopped at the Tower Bridge pier, the bridge (a drawbridge) went up!  It only goes up a few times per day and we could not be in a better location to see it!

By the time we got to Greenwich, we were tired and everything was closed - which I knew in advance but visiting The Prime Meridian is all part of experiencing London. We walked up to the observatory to see the Prime Meridian/ Greenwich Mean Time. Finding a place to eat dinner was a pain. We sat down in a pub but left after waiting 15 minutes for service. The place we actually ate did not serve Guinness... Somehow I survived. Lastly I was not prepared enough for a ride back to London - because we canceled the plan to walk under the Thames - so we had some confusion to get back. Nothing too bad at all but I got Craig and Reene back later than promised.  Actually my original plan was to spend all Sunday in Greenwich, which quite fortunately but coincidentally I changed, because as it turns out the train was not going to operate on Sunday!

Day 6 - Tower of London and Westminster Abbey

Today was a good day!  We went almost 12 miles according to map-my-run, but 4 of them were on the Tube. Of course it doesn't count stairs, which we managed quite a few.  

We started with the Tower of London, and spent 3 hours there checking out the amazing Crown Jewels, ramparts, Beefeater tour, and the White Tower.  The beefeaters are so funny! It was all very good stuff, and no question a London highlight. 

We crossed the river on the top level of the Tower Bridge (called the Exhibition).  Not worth the cost (but free with our London Pass) - I didn't realize it is inside so the views were barely ok.  Luckily the other side of the Thames offers a great pix of the Tower of London. 

We ate lunch at Borough Market.  It has quite the variety of food booth options - I will take one of each, please!  It was crowded and hard to keep together so we didn't scope the whole place out. 

Next was an audio tour of Westminster Abbey. It was well done telling us everything we should know, and what it doesn't tell you, you can ask one of the many helpful docents.  No pix allowed which means you can't take a pix of your favorite dead person (there are over 3000 buried there).  

Then we found our way down to the bunkers of the Churchill War Rooms.  They look just like they did when they switched off the lights in 1945. You could spend a little time or a lot of time there.  It was interesting. 

Outside at Saint James park Craig was making friends with all the animals. The park looks like a fairy tale, and having him surrounded by birds, geese, squirrels was like a scene from Cinderella (a male version, that is).  He wants to go back to see his friends!

I made a brass rubbing in the crypt of St Martin-in-Fields (in Trafalgar Square). I think my Christopher will really like it - I know he would have liked to make one!

Dinner was no good. Fish n chips in Soho. And for those who don't eat fish, a crappy sausage. Good company though, which is all that really matters.

It's bedtime but we can't stop laughing. Between Craig and Reene trying to share a twin, and me on the floor, plus now socks are hanging to dry from the chandelier -- we really class up this joint!

Day 5 - Arrival to London

So glad that the final morning with the car ended successfully!  Stress-free, no traffic drive into London (Heathrow), and only hit one more curb. (Glad to hear from a local that he hits the curbs when he goes to the U.S.) Best news of all, no damages to report on the rental ... Apparently the front hubcap was already all scratched up by the last Non-UK renter ;-)

I took the tube from the airport into town. I had to pick up some tickets we are using the next few days. Then I took a quick peek at the changing of the guard ceremonies - really only the one at the Horse Guard.  I was almost to the roundabout intersection of the Victoria Memorial right in front of Buckingham Palace, where their guard change was starting, but I had to turn towards the tube station instead ... I was already late to meet Craig and Reene at the train station.  They are my new travel companions as mom has left me high and dry for her fancy Tauck tour. 

At Kings Cross train station we had to go to Platform 9 3/4 for a picture of us pushing the suitcase trolley through the brick wall. The pix came out great but I can't include it because I don't have one from my phone. 

It started to rain on the way to the hotel- the ritzy Langham - and continued all afternoon. This place is no fun in the rain. But it was perfect timing to spend a couple hours in the British Museum. We saw lots of really really old things. 

In the evening we went to see the play War Horse. It's a great story with impressive puppetry, and gave me a fondness for horses that I never had before. 

Day 4 - the Best of the Countryside

Today was a very full day and everything about it was the best - the driving scenery  (I wish I could see it from the passenger seat), the sights, and the weather (England is beautiful when the sun is out).  We actually got a pretty early driving start since we were warned we'd hit rush hour traffic. 

Now on day three I am used to the driving. First and foremost, I could not do it without Tina (GPS) talking me through every bit of it. It is interesting being on the other side of the road - doing everything backwards - but it was smooth sailing. The majority of the roads I have driven are 2-lane, narrow, curvy and have no shoulder - with an insane speed limit of 60 mph. Of course as soon as you hit a town, you must slow to 30 - immediately. There are cameras everywhere.  And then they raise it up to 70mph for a half mile stretch between 2 roundabouts - which just doesn't make any sense to me. Many of the vehicles on the roads are trucks, and plenty are even tractors. They don't pull over and there's no place to pass, not even in the towns. So you either choose to get nowhere fast or pass on blind roads with oncoming traffic at 60mph. Then, many roads barely fit 2 cars. One very large section of country road today was absolutely one-way. When a local told me she lives out there, I asked her how she drives it. She said even they are always very nervous about what might come the other way!  

First we drove through a town that is the epitome of the Cotwolds - Castle Combe. Simple and beautiful. (But getting there requires tiny "one-way" roads.)

Then we went into Bath. The traffic wasn't too painful - it was our 1st bit of it since so far it has always been going the other direction. 

We started with the Roman Baths. They are incredibly well done - with their layout, exhibits, audio guide, and guided tours. What makes it better than any roman ruins or baths I've ever done is that there is still a source of springs coming through (at 113 degrees F) so you don't have to leave the water to your imagination. 

Next we took the free Bath city tour - extremely well done by volunteer locals.  Our guide took us to see all the key places in Bath, which was great because I wouldn't have done it otherwise. 

After the tour I had to go to the river to see their weir. It is mesmerizing and unique - which you know, if you saw Javer jump into it at the end of the recent movie release of Les Miserables. 

Then we drive to our overnight destination - Salisbury. I got there just in time for the guided tower tour of the cathedral... It has the tallest spire in the UK. It was very interesting and completely worthwhile, with great views from the top. 

Lastly we had a "private access" tour of Stonehenge after it was closed to the public. Stonehenge was the originating inspiration for my countryside adventure so it was not only exciting to finally make it there but very special that we could walk where most people never do - off the paths and between the stones of the inner circle. Very cool.  What I didn't expect was the kooks who where there for spiritual worship with their incense, drums and orgasms. They were f-king nuts!

We ended our long day with a delicious pub meal - beef pie and Guinness.  See, how could my day be any better?!

Day 3 - The Cotswolds

Magnificent  isn't it?

-- asked the local when  I was taking a pix of Blenheim Palace.  It is most famous for being the birthplace of Winston Churchill, but now and always has been the residence of the Duke of Marlborough.  It was very interesting to trace their ancestry all the way back to the start when the 1st Duke was given his title along with the land and money to build the palace.  They do a fantastic job of educating you. 

While we were inside, it started to rain the kind if rain that you expect from England. It didn't let up all day, which meant that I had no problem getting a picture of the gardens without anyone in it. 

Next we drove to Broadway Tower. "We drove out of the way for this?" asked mom - obviously unimpressed by the castle-like tower that sticks out prominently in the hillside. It is a folly - a structure that serves no purpose - built in 1799 by the 6th Earl of Coventry "just because". Unfortunately due to the rain I couldn't show mom how beautiful it is up against clear blue skies - and the view it offers. 

So we continued on to our destination in the Cotswolds: Burton-on-the-Water. It is a picturesque village along a river.  My intention was to go for a 6 mile run through "kissing gates" and over "stiles" in the fields between the towns - but the rain disappointingly reduced my plans to a shorter roadside run. 

We had an uneventful evening of Guinness beer and Chinese food in lovely surroundings. 

Our room was supposed to overlook the river but they gave it to someone else and gave us a street-view instead. 

Day 2 - Of Kings and Bards

Today was a very long day!  First I had to run around getting pictures of sleeping Cambridge. I started a bit too early so was talking to the porter. I love the way English people speak - they are so funny - when it doesn't sound like they are speaking a foreign language.  "That rubbish" and "the sweepings off the floor" were in reference to the Nescafe coffee they serve in our room.  I laughed out loud when Starbucks asked me where my accent is from. Me, accent?!

Then back in the car for some more driving fun. I can't even walk right here so it's pretty scary that I'm driving!  (When the light turned green, we walked across the street and a huge double decker bus went by yelling at us - mind the bus, or something.) Haven't hit anything yet but there's still time. Quite a few more points than bushes and curbs, bikes should really not ride near me ... dummies!   I really don't know why the English like roundabouts so much. I thought they were to avoid stoplights (keep traffic flowing) but many of the roundabouts have stoplights! What is that about?! 

We spent a good part of the day at a real castle - Warwick. It was very cool, very picturesque. Built in 1068, it was given to the Greville family in 1604. They owned it right up until 1978, when they sold it to Madame Tussaud's for a whopping $1.5 million.  Single paintings inside are worth more than that alone!  Now it is more of an amusement place than a historic one but that's ok because it gives you a much better sense of the way things were.  It beats ruins or an empty castle.  My favorite was climbing on the ramparts but the tours, trebuchet launch and peacocks were very good too. 

Then we drove to our sleeping destination - The White Swan hotel in Stratford-Upon-Avon. I walked around to check out Shakespeare's birthplace as well as a beautiful walk along the river - that took me to the church where he is buried. Everything about the walk was perfect -the weather, boats, swans, weir, bridges...  I can't believe no one else was out enjoying all of it!

Lastly we saw a play in the intimate Shakespearean Swan Theater. It was A Mad World, My Master - a comedy written by Middleton in 1605.  All the Brits were in hysterics. Yes it was funny but mom and I didn't get all the humorous British references. It was worth the experience, but beastly tired, we were glad when it was over and we could walk back to our hotel!

View of Warwick Castle from one of its towers

Shakespeare's birthplace 

Shakespeare's resting place

Pre-theater dinner with Mom

Day 1 - Cambridge

I didn't think I had time to get a run in today but United was there for me when I needed them. They delayed our flight from Sac to SFO 4 hours (gradually, 1 hour at a time) - long enough to make us miss our connecting flight from SFO to London. United Lounge and all sorts of pre-paid events for our first day in England flashed before my eyes...Until new friend Bill drives us to SFO - even though there's no way we are going to make it. But just in case we skip luggage check, dump all liquids from the suitcases, cut through priority security, and RUN  (still shoeless from security) to gate G97. Of course United had no faith in us so already canceled us from the flight - along with our comphy economy plus seats. As they are closing the plane doors I quickly text Greg "on". "Did mom make it too?" ... Lol.  They throw us to the very back of massive, full 747 plane. No, not next to each other -- because there are empty seats separating us!  Stretching across 2 seats for a 9 hour flight is like poor-man's business class. So in the end, things worked out for us. But unfortunately not for Bill who still had a car to park and a large suitcase to check.  I've since heard from him, and Apple Travel took good care of him- getting him to Cork, Ireland in time.  Today's lessons of the day: 1) there are amazing people out there, and 2) never book United's jumper from SMF to SFO!

Once we actually get on a flight, it is easy peasy from there!  Especially going to England. Wow, you cannot beat the ease of going to a country that speaks English, has signs in English, and even uses miles!  But here's where the worriesomeness begins...really, after all that normality, why do they drive on the wrong side of the road?!  Thankfully 1) It is early on a Sunday morning 2) I am driving away from London, and 3) I have Tina. I never thought I'd be so happy to hear her voice - she stopped talking to us when we took her to Italy 2 years ago. 

They use roundabouts here like they are going out of style, so it took me all of maybe a half mile to get to my 1st one. Of course I screwed it up... "Recalculating".  I did much better on the next one, but I forgot to look RIGHT for the traffic already in the circle. Good thing the brakes work. No, seriously Hun, I'm doing just fine ;) Just as I'm beginning to think this is super easy - maybe due to the major barrier keeping me on the "wrong" side of the road - I get to a small town. Then I learn the true definition of narrow. We are talking a road that clearly only fits one car ... But is 2-way!  Rather than hit the oncoming cars, I only hit some curbs and bushes. I cannot get used to where to drive in the lane now that I'm on the wrong side if the car.  But, I can proudly say we survived our first day of driving!!  

We are spending the first half of the trip driving around the countryside outside of London.  Our 1st destination was Cambridge.  Apparently our timing is perfect - since it is no longer summer, and they are in between terms, which means it is lacking many people and about 13,000 bicyclists!

I think I win a prize for finding something in the travel world that mom has neither done nor heard of... punting on the River Cam along the backs of the colleges.  When mom saw the punts she asked in alarm, "Oh we have do it ourselves?"  Of course we could, but why would we - when someone can do the hard work for us?!  Punting is kinda like a gondola - they use a pole to project the small boat forward. We come up on one boat of Japanese tourists - all ladies except their man punting them - and they are all screaming. Our guide tells us, "On a summer's day it is absolutely full of people like that and sometimes you get head on collisions!"

Next we took a tour around some of the colleges. Our guide was elderly and quite knowledgable - when she could remember what she was saying (not that I can knock her, I do that too!).  The tour highlight was King's College, and its amazing chapel.  Unfortunately though we are missing its evensong since it's not offered between terms. 

However, since school is not in session, we can actually stay at a college.  We are staying at St. Johns - one of the 31 colleges that make up the university.  The room is actually 2 bedrooms along with a bathroom and kitchen - wow, you can't beat it!  

I think I wore mom out. It's 5:45pm and she said goodnight.  I guess she's a bit jetlagged!  I'd go out exploring but I already went for a run, and it is cold! Apparently here it is either windy or rainy.  I have some reasonably warm clothes but I might need to be buying some wool, and definitely gloves - both of which I just couldn't pack in the 100 degree weather back home!

So far, so great. I am in awe that you can take a plane anywhere and end up in a completely different country.  Good times!!

Punting on the Cam

Chapel at King's College

St John's College

England Adventure Part II

Here we go! Mom and I leave early tomorrow for our adventure! Considering it includes driving on the "wrong" side of the road, it should prove to be an interesting trip!

     Circa 1987